Store bought can be a fast an easy solution. Why make this a big project, Right? Sometimes it's simply easier to go to the local feed store and buy a quick fix and get it over with. 
 
Perhaps this rubber tray is one of those perfect things for you. It's portable, washable, unbreakable, and it simply works. There are many options to try out, browse around a little and look at what you can do. I'd recommend a 3-gallon per 3-4 sheep (at most).
 
Use rubber because for this; it's probably recycled and it's also heavy. Plastic can be kicked around by your sheep easier while the rubber should be heavier and stick to the floor a little better.

 
There are also more elaborate styles available for mounting on the wall, or even a long trough if you plan on feeding MANY sheep. These long troughs are called Feed Bunks and you may find these of interest even though the cost is somewhat high for the short term. The advantage to these is that they are normally very heavy duty and will last you years.
 
Plastic Drums --

And you might want to think out of the box a bit. . . .as in "Think Drum".
 
Used plastic drums can be found as well as purchased; be careful with what was, or is, in them. Bottoms and tops can be cut and used like buckets but if you use a sawzall or skill saw you can cut the drum from top to bottom. If you cut it in half, you can have two watering troughs, cut it again (into 1/4th) and you'll have up to four (4) small feed troughs for up to about 12 adult sheep.
 

      Really nice when you want to isolate someone. It's portable, cheap, and really fast to make.



Pipe Trough (Feed Bunk made on a budget) --

 

This last type of feed trough is commonly called a feed bunk and has been made from many different materials including Concrete, Steel pipe, and PVC which is what is recommend here since you can both make it yourself and it doesn't require a crane to move the 2 to 5 tons.

Materials for two(2) 4-ft bunks:
2 x 4, One(1) 8-foot length                                                                       ~$4
6"-diam SCH 40 pipe (White pipe) -- about 10 foot section                         ~$25
Exterior/Deck screws, 2-1/4" long                                                            ~$3 - Full Box
Wood or white glue                                                                                 ~$2 - New Bottle

                                                                        Est. Total Cost             ~$34  
                                                               (Store bought 8-ft trough ~$150 - $170)
Tools:
Skill saw or table saw
Screw Driver or Drill with a screw driver bit (the latter is better)
Measuring tape
Marking Pencil or Sharpie

 

 

 

 

1) Go to the local hardware store and find the fattest white pipe you can locate. It will probably be a 4-inch or 6-inch sewer or drain pipe. I happen to have found a 4-ft section of 6-inch pipe for my needs and had a 2x4 in my garage from another project; I even had the screws so I didn't spend a dime to complete this project

(Lucky me).

 

 

 

2) Cut down the pipe length to the proper or preferable length you'd like it to be. In my case I'll be making two 4-foot bunks since that's my pipe length.  

3) Mark the pipe so that

you can cut it in half lengthwise into equal parts. I'll be using a table saw and will only need to mark the end of the pipe on either side of the circle (shown). The gate of the table saw will keep the pipe from rolling.

 

If you'll be using a skill saw then you'll want to lay the pipe on the ground and put a lot of sand or dirt around it so that it doesn't roll as you cut.

 

4) Rotate the pipe over 180 degrees, and cut the other side -- you should have two halves, each will be its own trough.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5) Take the 2x4 and cut four(4) 18-inch pieces. Then with the remainder, cut eight(8) 3-inch peices. These will be used for the base support. (This is exactly 96 inches or 8-ft)

 

 

6) Place and center the pipe on the wood supports, Use a measuring tape to center the half-pipe.

 

 

 

 

7) Using wood or white glue to add additional support, glue the 3-in wood blocks so that the butt up against the pipe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8) Screw the small blocks into place. Using 2-1/2' wood, drywall, or deck/exterior screws.

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                                            Self tapping screws

 

9) Using a self-tapping screw (It looks like it has a small drill bit or chisel point at the end), screw the pipe to the base. If you don't have self-tapping screws then pre-drill the holes with a drill bit beforehand else the pipe may crack.

 

 

 

 

 

10) This is the finished product !