Pipe Types -

There are generally two types of pipe available in stores, Schedule 20 & Schedule 40. As seen in this picture, the wall thickness is significantly different. Schedule 20 can hold about 240 psi while schedule 40 can hold 480 psi, and Schedule 80 (an industrial PVC) a whopping 690 psi. The price difference is insignificant between SCH 20 and 40; SCH 40 is always the way to go unless you're installing sprinklers.

This PVC pipe cutter makes a clean and even cut every time. Any saw will cause burrs or small fragments along the cut edge which prevent a good pipe weld/seal. This tool is WELL WORTH THE $20 - 25 you might spend in both time savings and mistakes (makes it easier for women to cut pipe too!). It also keeps you from buying a de-burr tool for SCH 40 and SCH 20 pipe. De-burr tools are always required for SCH 80 (High pressure pipe)

45 Degree -

This item is used very infrequently. It needs to be installed 'just' right if you plan on using two to turn a corner. Any slight mistake in the weld position will throw you off from this point on.

Elbow (90 degree) -
Speaks for itself, they let you turn 90 degrees.

Couple -
Couples are used to either join long segments of pipe, or, as a socket fit for reducing pipe size or changing to a threaded connection.

Tee -
Used to add an additional direction to teh water flow such as a new faucet connection (for example)

Adapter / Reducer-
The stores seem to call what's pictured an "adapter" even though it's really a reducer. When you're changing from one size pipe to another, it's called a reducer. If you need to change from a socket fit to a threaded connection, then it's called an adapter.

Valve (True Union or Double Union)-
There are two types of standard PVC valves sold in stores; the one pictured is a double union and the other (not shown) is a socket valve. The socket valve is a less expensive valve and the pipe is directly welded into it. If something goes wrong with the valve, or if you spill even a drop of cement or primer into it, then you'll need to cut it off and replace the pipe and valve to replace them. It's very easy when making a vertical welded pipe connection to have extra cement drip into the valve and ruin it. The advantage of the valve shown is that the ends can be cemented to the pipe first, then the valve can be tightened into place later. If the valve goes bad sometime in the future, simply replace it with the same manufacturer's valve -- a 2-min job. It typically adds about 40% to the cost of the valve. (This was $8 for 3/4-inch)

The valve can have it's own cover. When burried it will be out of site but accessable to turn of everything it controls without shutting down the water for the entire house/building. (This was my home sprinkler system recently repaired and moved - I corrected the previous installer's mistakes)

Primer & Cement, 2-part weld -

Primer isn't just sold as purple but also comes 'clear'. The purpose of the primer is to serve as a cleaner to remove the releasing agent used in the part molds of the manufacterer (similar to why we use oil in a baking pan) and to soften the PVC before the cement is applied. It's important to fully clean both pieces that are to be joined.

The cement you'll use also comes in many colors from clear, grey, and even bright blue but they'll all work the same for simple water plumbing described in these pages. When you apply this cement make sure you use it liberally on both parts to be joined, press and twist them together at the same time and rotate the two slowly (space permitting) until you can feel resistance as the glue starts to melt, dry, and weld the pieces together. PVC cement takes a MINIMUM of 1 hour to dry and CAN NOT glue water-wet parts together because the water will break the seal and harden the glue before it welds properly; therefor a leak is almost guaranteed.

TFE (Teflon Tape)

Pipe dope (Teflon paste) -

Socket & Threaded Ends -

Cap -