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Creating a New Pasture   

Sometimes pictures can tell a story better than words. In Jan '09 I decided to start expanding my grass area and create a fourth pasture. I'd been thinking about this new area for some time but have left it wild for the past four years. During that time small trees have grown, the area is now covered in wild grape, corn grass, wild onion, and many other types of native weeds and grasses.

In making this pasture I took a bunch of pictures and laid it all out for you to see what I did and how easy it is. 

Step 1 -- Making a Plan

I found that Google earth (Free Download) updated their satelite pictures of my area and my pastures can be clearly seen from space (That's so cool!). I printed a close up of the property and used tracing paper to outline the current fenceline and then added my changed to the trace (see picture below). Playing around with google earth a bit more I even found out that there is a feature which can tell you approx how many miles/yards/feet the new fence will be (A ruler function located on the top bar). From this simply tool I found that I'll need about 400 feet of fence to enclose my new area.  (Dashed lines are the new fence. X-'d out lines are fence I'll need to remove)

Step 2 - Estimating Costs

From the plan I know the amount of fence I'll need and from that I can "estimate" the number of wood posts, concrete, T-posts, barbed wire, electrical insulators (for my electric barbed wire), and gate. I may need more or less, but this at least will give me an idea of what I should expect from the project.

Wood Posts (4x4x8 treated lumber):

400 / 40 = 10

Five(5) Added Corners = 16  (Additional posts needed for corners and terminating ends)

Gate Posts (1 gate) = 0  (In this case my fence will hang on a corner already counted)

Estimated Total Posts Needed = 26

Concrete:

16 posts in-ground x 1 bag per post = 16 bags

Estimated Total Concrete = 16 bags (80 lbs)

T-posts:

400 / 10 = 40 Total posts

40 - 10 (# of Wood posts excluding extra corner posts) = 30

Estimated Total T-Posts Needed = 30

Fencing:

400/330 ( 330 feet per roll - standard for the manufacturer I want) = 2 (Rounding up)

Estimated Total Fencing = 2 rolls

Barbwire:

1000 ft  / (400 * 2)  = 1  (1000 feet is a standard spool. I'll be running two strands of wire)

Estimated Total Barbwire = 1 roll

Misc:

3 pkg t-post clips (50/pkg)

2 pkg t-post insulators (25/pkg)

1 pkg wood post nail on insulators (25/pks)

1 Gate (6 ft) with hardware

1 box fence staples

Summary of Expenses (Estimations. . . . . .2009 prices):

26  x    $7.00    = $ 182  (Wood Posts)

16  x    $4.00    = $   64  (Concrete)

30  x    $5.00    = $ 150  (T-posts)

  2 x $155.00    = $ 310  (Fence)

  1 x   $75.00    = $  75  (Barbwire)

  3 x     $3.00    = $   6  (T-post clips)

  2 x     $5.00    = $  10  (T-post Insulators)

  1 x     $3.50    = $   7  (Wood post insulators)

  1 x   $78.00    = $  78  (Gate, 6-ft)

  1 x   $23.00    = $  23  (Fence staples, ~6 lbs)

Total Est. Cost               =    $ 905

10% Contingency         =         90

Total Est. Project Cost = $1,000    ( ~$2.50/ft, assuming 400 ft)

Actual Expenses

37  x   $ 6.91   = $255.59  (Wood Posts, includes tax)

21  x   $ 3.40   = $  71.36  (Concrete, includes tax)

26  x   $ 4.30   = $111.78  (T-posts, includes tax)

  3  x   $ 0.00   = $        0  (T-post clips -- was included with T-posts)

  3  x   $ 1.06   = $   3.18  (Corner post insulators)

  1  x    $4.84   = $   4.84   (Wood post insulators, includes tax)

  1  x    $3.22   = $   3.22   (T-post Insulators, includes tax)

  1  x  $20.55   = $  20.55  (High tension wire for corner/end posts - 170 ft)

  9  x   $ 2.13   = $  19.19  (Wire tensioners)

  2  x $149.38  = $ 298.77  (Fence - 330', 12 gage, 39" field fence)

  1  x $ 50.88   = $  50.88   (Barbwire, includes Tax)

  1  x $ 46.55   = $  46.55   (Gate, 6-ft)

  1  x $ 11.90   = $  11.90   (Chain & Clasp for gate)

  1  x $   4.98   = $   4.98    (Warning signs for electric fence)

  3  x $   2.70   = $   8.09    (Fence Staples, 1 lb boxes)

Total Actual Cost               =    $ 910.87

Actual Length Erected     =       568 ft

Cost of fencing ----- >      $1.60 linear ft

Step 3  -- Cutting Out a Path - Fence-line

The new area for my pasture has been sitting for at least 5-6 years undisturbed making this part of the project much harder than simply mowing down some weeds like the previous areas were. For that reason I needed a chainsaw and a lot of back-breaking work to prepare a path for the fence installation.

The reason for the path is simple. The 330 feet of fence weighs 140 lbs or more and is difficult to manouver if standing up on its ends or on uneven land. I found that the easiest way to set up the fence is to roll it out on the ground, attach one end of the fence securely, and then on the far side (or next wood post), use the fence stretcher to apply tension and staple it in. 

Rolling out the fence requires a minimum of about 5-feet or more so that the fence doesn't get tangled in weeds, bushes, or trees of any kind. I prefer to clear the land that is "Inside" the fenceline so that bushes and grass can quickly cover the base of the fence and help protect the sheep from animals that might want to climb UNDER the fence (such as dogs). When clearing the area keep any stones you find next to your posts so you can locate them later on. Rocks are good for plugging gaps created by uneven soil conditions.

And since I'm basically lazy and don't like walking long distances with concrete, lumber and fenceing, I make the path wide enough for my small SUV (4x4) to drive through. It really does save a whole lot of time and energy when you can drive what you need exactly to where you need it. Every little bit of labor savings adds up since I do this completely on my own -- and you might be doing this alone as well.

Like most people, I don't have a lot of extra cash laying around to purchase everything needed all at once for this project. That means that I only do a little bit at a time and keep the path mowed to keep it clear when I finally get around to it. The more you mow, the more grass that will fill in the cleared space because weeds, bushes, and trees are much slower growing and the constant cutting kills them out. I've been mowing the new pasture infrequently for the past couple years (Infrequently meaning about four times a year). And this (below) is how the land currently appears when once it looked like the wild area shown in the picture at the top of the page. If I had mowed it weekly like I would mow my home lawn then it would in fact look like a normal park lawn.

Step 4 -- Marking and Planting Posts

Now is the time to mark out and plant posts for the fence. The maximum distance between wood posts is 40 feet or less and are used for the main bracing and support of the fence; t-posts are mainly just to keep the fence upright. If the wood posts are any further than 40 feet it becomes increasingly easy for a ram to push on the middle and lay the fence over on its side; simply hopping over it to get to the ewes (seen it done! Ticked me off too).

First, mark out the corners and terminating ends with stakes and tie string so that you can clearly see where you're going to place the fence. Then mark off intervals of 40-feet or less bewteen the two ends and sink wood posts as shown on the "Posts and Post Holes" page.

To ensure that the posts give you the greatest lifespan, consider using concrete and a concrete forms to raise the concrete above the level of the ground. Pre-mixing your concrete will help eliminate cracks and pockets which allow water to penetrate from the soil and rot out the posts at the ground level -- not to mention termites. In extreme conditions of moisture and bugs consider marine grade treated lumber. In my wet climate, treated 4x4 wood posts should last at least 15 years. I know this because that's how long my backyard fencing lasted before the hurricanes put enough force to weaken and crack my 4x4 posts at their base.

Step 5  --  Corners and Terminating Fences

Fences that start in the middle of another fence, OR, a fence that terminates, will need to be braced with another post no further than about 7 feet away. A horizontal beam will be placed between them and a tension wire strung diagonally in order to place some pressure on the corner post and prevent it from leaning into the pasture. A leaning post will more likely happen in soggy areas like the picture below. Not only should that corner post have braces but also make sure you bury it deep and use concrete liberally.

Step 6  --  Plant T-posts

If you've allowed 40 feet between wood posts, then every 10 feet there should be a steel T-Post. T-Posts get their name because they are made in the shape of a "T". The flat side of the posts are made so that the bumps hold up the fence. When pounding these into the ground, make sure they are facing the correct direction.

                                      {{{ PICTURE OF T-POST FROM TOP }}}

           {{{ PICTURE OF T_POST HOLDING UP FENCE FROM THE FLAT SIDE  }}}

Step 7  --  Hanging the Fence